If you are a regular user of ferries around Europe, but this is your first time aboard PolFerries Wawel, you may think this ship is on the 'quirky' side, but may not be able to put your finger on the reason why. To be honest, this 'quirkiness' is what I adored about Wawel - being totally unique!
This ship has had a very long and varied career - I won't bore you with the details, except to say she was originally launched as a freight ship in 1979 then, in the late 1980's, converted into a passenger vessel for the hour and a half Dover/Calais crossing; introduced in the early 1990's named FANTASIA, her interior design was something never seen before aboard a car ferry!
Wrap around floor to ceiling windows, large cavernous facilities which effectively 'swallow' the large passenger and vehicle loads which the Dover/Calais route attracts, double height decks with mezzanine levels, curved staircases and a discotheque in a dome on the top of the ship - this ship really represented a new era in cross channel ferry transportation!
I took this photograph in 1990 and depicts perfectly how her design differs from earlier vessels
Sealink publicity material from 1990
(Wow, was that really more than thirty years ago - I feel old!)
Over the decades she was refitted pretty much annually and changed names several times until she was displaced on the Straight of Dover in 2003 and laid-up in Dunkerque, which was the last time I saw her.
After a very short lived stint operating in the Mediterranean, she moved to the Baltic in 2004 and has been there ever since.
Fantasia did have a sister ship called Fiesta - the French version to the British Fantasia. Essentially the same but with a differing internal décor, which I personally preferred. Unfortunately she was scrapped in 2011/12.
The relevant bit - just takes a sec.....
She was converted from a freighter into a passenger ferry for the high capacity fast paced operation of the 90min UK/France ferry route.
Today however, she operates the leisurely 18+hr voyage across the Baltic; essentially chalk and cheese, this longer route would require hundreds of cabins so the passengers can sleep, not to mention far more facilities to keep the passengers occupied for the whole duration.
Shall we go aboard and see what she is like - whether she is suitable for such a long journey?
I have to admit, over the past thirty years I have travelled aboard this ship many, many, (many) times and seen how she has developed to suit the corporate needs of the operator she serves - I have thousands of interior photographs and files full of interior deck plans, so I know this ship extremely well.
I hope this blog will highlight some of the major changes and assist YOU if you ever find yourself aboard her.
Sealink British Ferries / Sealink Stena Line livery
Full Sealink Stena Line livery
Stena Sealink Line livery
Full Stena Line livery
Partial livery of new P&O Stena Line venture
Full P&O Stena Line livery
Full P&O livery
PolFerries livery
As we 'walk around' her decks I will give you some handy hints and tips to help you if you ever find yourself aboard her in Scandinavia.
I will also show you some relevant interior pictures of her heritage so you can see how this vessel has changed over the decades. Apologies in advance as the quality of some of the earlier photographs is not the best - cameras were not as good as they are today.
Grab a cuppa, curl up and let's go as we travel from Gdansk to Nynashamn.
So, it is 1630hrs and we can board Wawel for the 1800hrs sailing to Sweden - you may have arrived a little too early for embarkation so you've spent time across the road in the vast war memorial (I have put a link at the end of this blog which gives details).
We proceed up to the 2nd floor of the ferry terminal via an elevator having already checked-in down stairs; the terminal being a 'cold' and unforgiving place with nothing other than a vending machine and a toilet in terms of facilities. Fortunately we are assured of a warm welcome by the staff member at the check-in desk.
We walk along a lengthy elevated corridor towards the ship.
(The foot passenger walkway in Gdansk)
We board Wawel on her starboard side, just forward of her mammoth 'sea to sky' funnel which gave her the nickname 'the grasshopper' when operating in the UK.
Our first point of contact with the ship is actually her starboard side sponson which runs along her entire length; this sponson, in addition to acting as a stability aid for the ship, is also where passengers congregate should they need to evacuate the ship - we are much closer to sea level allowing safer access to life rafts.
A door just forward of her funnel gives access to the 'orange' stairs where our boarding pass is checked prior to us ascending the stairs to her main passenger deck - an automatic door closing behind us preventing passengers from leaving the ship.
Below; the starboard side sponson with access door.
Below, starboard side sponson and passenger gangway.
Our first glimpse of her main passenger deck is the iconic foyer located amid ships aft and despite some décor changes, is instantly recognisable to me as the Fantasia with her full height floor to ceiling windows, curved staircase and information desk - she feels so familiar and is like being reunited with a long lost friend. Well, it has been nearly twenty years since I was last aboard.
1993 - how she originally looked. Very little changes - even the ceiling lights, balustrade on the stairs and marble desk tops remain! When introduced three years earlier she had blue carpeting with yellow stars as per artists impressions. Note the ceiling hung deck plans!
But, after a very long day travelling to Poland from the UK, let's find our cabin, unpack and then we can have a thorough look around - having boarded an hour and a half early we are going to be aboard for just under twenty hours, so there is no rush!
So, where could our passenger cabin be?
Baring in mind this ferry was designed for a crossing of ninety minutes where cabin accommodation is not required, who knows!
Ah, there it is, within the former self service restaurant on Deck 6!
Bit of history for you.
The entire amid ship section of this deck was once the vast 'free-flow' self service restaurant, which later in her career became McDonald's Restaurant & Easy Diner followed by Rudi's Diner, International Food Court and First Base Burger Bar . A gift shop and accompanying children's play room was also introduced later in her career.
1993
All of this has been completely gutted and replaced with many ensuite passenger cabins.
(Deck plan from 1991/2)
(Deck plan from 1993)
(Deck plan from 1994)
1994
1995
1997
1999 - McDonald's now on the starboard side nearest the Calais foot passenger gangway (former Rudi's Diner / Easy Diner) and an International Food Court now on the port side where McDonald's once was.
2000 - McDonald's renamed First Base Burger Bar
When introduced in the 90's the central seating areas for the restaurants was raised to enable passengers sitting here to have a better view of the sea over the heads of those sitting closer to the windows. This has been removed so the whole vast area is now a level surface.
The once large picture windows have been covered over on both the port and starboard sides having been replaced by considerably smaller windows for the individual cabins required on this lengthy service across the Baltic.
When operating from Dover/Calais, the foot passenger embarkation door for the French port was located within this dining facility. The picture below shows this external horizontal gangway and the double oval doors giving access to her interior. Note, prior to 1995 there were external steps leading to these doors.
When on the quayside in Gdansk / Nynashamn if you look closely you can still see the original oval doors now hidden amongst the cabin windows - the inboard side is now an office/storage space - amazing to think thirty years ago I came through these doors so many times having enjoyed a day out in France!
(Below, the double oval doors and vertical weld marks show the location of the Calais foot passenger gangway)
1996 - quarter of a century earlier; the same double oval doors seen from the inside. All of this now cabin accommodation
My cabin for the journey would be 6009; an 'outside' cabin on the ships' starboard side not too far away from where the old Calais foot passenger gangway once was. Cabin 6009 is very well appointed with a small desk with adjacent power socket, mirror, bed side table, shower, sink and toilet. It was clean and very well maintained.
2000 - little did I know when I took this photo, twenty years later I would be sleeping in a cabin in this very spot!! You can see the Calais foot passenger gangway on the right hand side.
Now we are settled in, let's go for an explore.
Let's go back to the foyer and do a lap of this deck.
So, we are back at the foyer; an oversized facility with the 'wow' factor - the hub of the ship. It has changed very little from her days as an English Channel ferry! The bureau de change and information desk are still in their original positions with the same chunky marble counter tops and opposite is the iconic curved staircase which gives access to the deck above and the shop - the balustrade on the stairs exactly as it was all those decades ago. Even the signage on the stairwells which gives access to the vehicle decks and the sign above the entrance to the shop is from her time at Dover!
This shows that the design team responsible for her conversion from a freighter to a car ferry were ahead of their time and the design is just as suitable now as it was thirty years ago.
Below - signage from her time at Dover still evident today
The 'gap' between the bureau de change and information desk (which would have given access to the dining area - now cabins) has been closed off and the area available for children to play.
1993
1994 - Sealink Stena Line
1996 - Stena Line
1999 - P&O Stena Line
2002 - P&O Ferries
We will come back to the shop shortly, but first let's continue aft along the starboard side corridor.
A highly well lit area with natural light owing to the floor to ceiling windows, there are wonderful views of the passing vistas as we walk aft. The floor is ramped so the ceiling height nearest the foyer is higher.
We pass a new port/starboard corridor which gives access to a new block of cabins which would have been within the original shopping centre/playroom when operating in the channel.
1993 - the shopping centre, now cabins.
1994 - now cabins
We pass a luggage storage room - roughly where the toilets used to be - ideal if you do not have a cabin to store your bags.
We arrive at the ships' main bar located at the aft end of Deck 6. Still very much the P&O Silverstone Sports Bar when this ship was called PO Canterbury, her décor has little changed in all these years.
P&OSL tables still very much evident throughout, though now very old and could do with a varnish
Upon entering one immediately feels at home in a safe and familiar environment, which is very comforting being many hundreds of miles away from home. It is amazing to see old signage (notably the etched glass mirrors either side of the bar), carpeting, gaming alcoves and tables from an old P&O Ferries era.
The seating within the bar is very comfortable and those adjacent to the windows are guaranteed a superb view of the sea.
A 'pull down' cinema screen beneath the skylight void shows a Polish news channel (this accounts for some of the skylight glass panels being covered over as seen in the picture below).
The staff are so friendly; everyone chipping in to serve passengers including security staff.
Two reclining seat lounges have been introduced within the 'points' at the extreme aft end of the lounge, which consist of forward facing airline style seating, localised two pin power sockets, TV screen and magnificent sea views. The amount of leg room is excellent.
If you are sleeping in here as no cabin accommodation was booked, you may leave your luggage in the luggage room in the starboard side corridor giving access to the aforementioned bar.
A single UK three pin power socket was found within the starboard lounge, looking a little worse for ware! It is unknown if it worked.
Direct access to the vast exterior decks above can be obtained from the former Port of Dover foot passenger walkway..........
..........along with the doors on the port/starboard side of the lounge - the later are 'floating' stairs welded onto the ships' exterior; don't look down if you are scared of heights!
We will come back to the exterior deck later.
In the meantime let's go back to the bar so I can show you how it has changed over the decades.
1993 - Samba Bar
1994 - Stingers Bar
1996
1999 - area renamed Silverstones. Note the etched mirrors and tables which are the same to this day!
Let's walk forward along the port side corridor; just like the starboard side corridor, this one is also ramped nearest the foyer..
(note the original signage for the disabled toilet)
We arrive back at the main foyer.
Let's go shopping.
We climb a few steps and go into the shop. As the port/starboard corridors adjacent to the shop are ramped I am sure there must be access to the shop if you are unable to climb the stairs (there certainly was when the ship was Fantasia at Dover) though I cannot confirm.
This shop partially occupies the same footprint as it did from its Dover/Calais days, although is considerably smaller owing to the new cabin block at the after end.
The shop is extremely small with shelving all the way around and a single free standing central shelving unit, so essentially the shop is only two aisles wide - a huge difference from when it was a vast shopping centre.
Once we enter the shop we turn to starboard where a selection for clothing is located. Fragrances are along the back wall, followed by confectionary, alcohol and cigarettes. Once inside the shop it is necessary to walk all the way round to to exit; the tills being in the middle of the shop.
Let's go back down the steps to the foyer and continue forward - walking through the maze of cabin corridors which once was the self service cafeteria, McDonald's, Rudi's Diner, etc. and past the 'red' stairs on the port side at the forward end.
(Note, the picture below shows the back of the information desk (left) and the back of the bureau de change (centre) facing to port.
The gift shop introduced in 1995 was positioned behind the bureau de change.
The red doors show the space which would have given access to the foyer. The seating for the dining areas would have been on the right).
1998 - this was the view more than twenty years prior, but facing forward. My back is where the red doors are in the picture above. The gift shop/playroom can be seen to my left and the raised seating area for McDonalds and Rudi's Diner ahead - this is all cabins now!
Let's continue forward walking past where McDonald's used to be on the port side.
(note the ceiling mounted signage for the public toilet remains, although the area is now crew only). McDonalds / dining area would have been on the right.
The same area in 1996 - note the same ceiling mounted signage for the public toilets
We arrive at the main dining room at the front of the ship.
When introduced in the early 1990's this space was the truly spectacular Motorists Lounge - a double height space with mezzanine deck above and a curved staircase linking the two, a large 'sunrise' mural on the large wall above the bar and wrap around floor to ceiling windows.
Over the years this area has been divided to incorporate a separate dining area, lounge and coffee shop.
1993 - a brasserie introduced on the starboard side
1994 - the Brasserie renamed Globetrotter. Note the Haagen Dazs outlet.
1995
1996 - Haagen Dazs outlet now Ben & Jerry's
1999 - Globetrotter renamed Langans
2000
Today, as Wawel, on the lower level on the port side is the buffet. Passengers queue from the starboard side, obtain their meals and pay at the single till on the port side. The counter is the original one from when the ship was introduced.
1998 - the picture below is taken from roughly the same position of that above. Note the relocation of the curved staircase to the starboard side
2000 - Note the new Coffee outlet introduced the year before
The seating is comfortable and looking through my archives appears to be the seating that used to occupy McDonald's and Rudi's Diner from the P&OStena days.
Sitting here enjoying my meal and watching one of the TV monitors, I take a look around. The ceiling (two decks above) still has the original 'sun rays' from the 1990's and the sofas which line the windows appear to be the same ones from when a Harbour Coffee Company outlet once occupied this area-etched glass signage still remains behind the bar. Also, canvas prints adorn the large wall above the bar from P&OStena days and the original curved staircase giving access to the upper deck remains, though it has been reversed and is now located on the starboard side of this area.
Wawel has an a la carte restaurant in the form of Langan's - the same décor and location as it was many years ago, positioned on the starboard side of the deck at the forward end.
A lounge has been created within the starboard side corridor between the 'green' stairs and the entrance to the restaurant where passengers can sit and wait for a table.
The same area in 1996
Sampling breakfast the next morning, this is in buffet form where hot and cold beverages are available, scrambled egg, hot dog sausages, cereal's and cold meats. This is such a pleasant area to relax and watch the sea go past.
I should note that the staff were wearing white shirts / blouses, black skirt/trousers and bow tie - they all look so elegant and professional.
So, that was deck 6. Let's go up to Deck 7
It is not possible to climb the curved staircase within this forward dining room as it is cordoned off at the top, so lets go to the 'green' stairs near Lagan's and go up those - note the original Calais foot passenger gangway on the right hand side of the picture below along with a considerable amount of signage from her days operating from Dover.
Ascending the stairs I am expecting to see the Commercial Drivers Restaurant ahead of me - as that is where I remember it from the ships' time on the English Channel.
When I arrive I am greeted by the original signage however, the restaurant beyond has vanished! It's place converted into a large number of passenger cabins. I love the fact the signage remains - another quirky feature of this ship!
1999 - inside the Commercial Drivers Restaurant
2000
Before having an explore let's have a peek into the (closed) upper level of the forward dining room and mezzanine level.
It appears this upper level is now the 'new' Commercial Drivers Lounge & Restaurant. Unfortunately the door is closed so we cannot look.
We can however take a peek at the starboard side lounge for commercial drivers. The overhead signage for the toilet is an original feature.
1999 - the same area. Note the overhead signage for the toilet
Having an explore of the new passenger cabin corridors where the commercial drivers dining area was, I note the Club Lounge from her days as POSL Canterbury (starboard side, formerly the Business Lounge as Stena Fantasia) and crew cabins (port side) have also been converted.
I found it fascinating having an explore up here as I have never been able to gain full access in all the years I have travelled aboard this ship.
1993 - Looking forward; Business Lounge, with conference room beyond the wooden doors. The Commercial Drivers Restaurant is beyond that - all now passenger cabins.
1996 - looking aft. All of this is now passenger accommodation however, the stairs remain to this day.
1999 - Business Lounge and Conference Room converted into a Club Class Lounge
Former crew cabins on the port side
Having a wonder around I see the numerous corridors up here give access to the hall/lobby at the top of the curved staircase above the ships' foyer
The original phone booths in this lobby on the ships port side still remain, though are devoid of telephones.
1994 - the same area
1995
1999
Now, the bit I am really excited to investigate - the iconic dome!
1993
Bit of history - just takes a second.
When introduced in the very early 1990's a discotheque entitled 'Rock Box Disco' was located on the ground floor of the dome with direct access from the adjacent hall; the area above and the actual dome just a void space / crew area.
Then, during her career, the disco became a small gaming arcade. Finally, the gaming arcade became a 'crew only' area.
As such, in over thirty years I have never seen inside the dome its self - will I be lucky enough to get inside?
1993 - former Rock Box Disco; the area divided to become 'crew only' and a passenger gaming arcade.
1995
A cinema / conference room now occupies the lower level of the dome - former crew area/arcade/disco. Unfortunately it was closed and the door locked so I could not gain entry.
Walking down an adjacent corridor which gives access to the new passenger cabins, access to the dome is on my right.
Walking up the narrow stairs I am filled with excitement and apprehension as I have no idea what to expect.......
I have got to say, I am genuinely 'wowed' by what I saw......
I am finally within the heart of the dome.
Hundreds, no thousands of small colour changing lights cover the ceiling of the dome as if I am looking at the night sky with an infinite horizon.
The music system at full pelt with the acoustics absolutely breath taking - I have never heard anything like this before, though to be fair I have never been in a domed disco before.
Alcove seating with deep cushioned sofas adorns the circumference of the dome base - ideal for groups, whilst in the centre is a large dance floor.
The bar and DJ booth are adjacent to the stairs which we ascended to gain entry to the disco.
The disco is open between 1830hrs and 0430hrs - what a night out!
For the dedicated party goers who do make it to 0430hrs you still have over seven hours sleep time before arrival in Sweden.
(The above photographs of the disco really do not give justice to what this facility is really like - it truly is excellent!)
Let's check-out the exterior decks.
The main exterior deck is located at the aft end of Deck 7. It appears to be in good condition and spans the area directly above the main bar, aft cabins and shop.
A bar is positioned between the mast and dome but is closed on this journey. Glass screens between the funnels and the Deck 7 hall prevent cross winds for those in this area - it is believed these were introduced when this ship operated within the Mediterranean.
A 'pet toilet' - essentially a large sand pit - is located adjacent to the port side funnel.
Winged exterior decks either side of the dome literally overhang the port and starboard sides of the ship and provide phenomenal views fore and aft and is THE place to be when arriving into port.
Wawel is an eclectic mix of old and new - essentially a floating museum, and if one knows her history one could spend several hours hunting down items from her heritage - which I certainly did!
When you disembark take a few moments to look up at her name on her bow - you will be able to make out her former name beneath the paint, if you look closely.
Wawel is a very warm, homely and welcoming vessel which is carpeted throughout with a tasteful décor and comfortable furnishings. The pace aboard is so relaxed - around 20hrs to just settle back and enjoy the journey.
There is little do do aboard - a bar/lounge, tiny shop, dining room and disco but did I get bored? not in the slightest!,
In closing, travelling many hundreds of miles to board one vessel for a lengthy voyage was definitely worth it and I would go back in a heart beat!