With staycations increasing in popularity, not least owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, I wanted to take this opportunity to really explore what the UK has to offer.
The Scilly Isles are located around thirty miles off the coast of Cornwall and can be reached by aeroplane, helicopter and ferry - of course, promoting ferry travel I opted for the later!
Although the slowest means of travel out of the trio, it is the most leisurely, cost effective and arguably the most scenic however, owing to her size and shallow draft to allow access into the island harbour, she is renowned for her lively motion in rough sea conditions, but according to the crew, she will go out to sea in all but the most extreme conditions - a tough, sturdy little ship!.
With my trusty rucksack packed with overnight essentials I head off on my adventure. Would you like to join me?
Let's start at the beginning.
The booking process was swift and easy - all done online on my smart phone and taking just a few minutes. Being silly I miss typed my email address however, after a quick call to the Isle of Scilly Steam Ship Company I had my confirmation emailed to me before the friendly representative said goodbye.
Staying a few days on the islands was out of my budget - probably owing to the height of the summer season and UK staycations (currently) being the only option for holidays at present. Therefore, I opted for a day return costing £30 and allowing four hours ashore - which unsurprisingly turns out wasn't enough!.
The ferry berth is located on the far side of Penzance harbour and can be seen from the train as you approach Penzance - I didn't fancy the long drive from London so I let the train take the strain....
I travelled from London to Penzance aboard Great Western Railway's Night Riviera Sleeper Train - a fantastic product allowing a good nights sleep and essentially allowing me to start my holiday from the time I boarded at London Paddington.
Having booked a cabin aboard I was automatically granted access to the First Class Lounge at the London terminus - entry is permitted from around 2100hrs, nearly three hours prior to departure.
My cabin aboard the train was very well appointed with a wardrobe, ample power sockets to charge my phone & laptop, bed side table, wash basin and a silky soft duvet.
My cabin was exceptionally clean.
Of course, the cabin was an extra cost to my actual travel fare. I could have opted for a reclining seat which is included but, I'm on holiday so time to relax the purse strings!
Plus, if hiring a cabin you get complimentary hot and cold beverages from the on board bar (non alcoholic) plus snacks and a light breakfast in a bag upon arrival in Cornwall.
Below - the reclining seats which are included in the fare
The on board bar/lounge is a great place to relax for a few hours before retiring to bed.
With a scheduled arrival time in Penzance of 0800hrs I had around 45minutes (maximum) to find my way from the train station to the ferry. I did no research prior to my arrival in Penzance so I didn't really know how far away the port was from the station or how to get there - part of the adventure, though risky! I like to do the hard work so you don't have too.
With no 'dwell time' between Plymouth and Penzance on the sleeper train to make up for any potential delays, I decided to 'jump trains' in Plymouth and catch one of Great Western Railway's much faster Intercity Express Trains (IET's) which would arrive in Penzance around 20min earlier thereby buying me a little extra time.
The journey through Cornwall is spectacular and travelling by train means you can relax looking at the passing scenery - why would you want to drive?!
I have now arrived in Penzance, refreshed and relaxed with the peace of mind I have plenty of time to get to the ferry.
Now the good bit - let's get the ferry to the Isle of Scilly.
Here are some handy hints and tips for you.
Upon leaving Penzance railway station turn right and walk past the Premier Inn hotel which is just across the road. Continue forward so the buildings are on your right and the harbour is on your left. Follow the road and the signage and you will be at the port in around 15minutes if walking at a leisurely pace, though there are taxi ranks adjacent to the railway station if you'd prefer not to walk.
The ferry operating the three hour voyage to St Mary's is the Scillonian 3 which entered service in 1977 - a very small passenger only flat bottomed vessel with a shallow draft - though it does carry a few containers holding passenger luggage.
Foot passengers are greeted on the approach road to the port by a ferry company representative and are directed down one of two lanes.
If you have luggage you must proceed down the left hand lane where your bags are placed into a container to be lifted into the ships' hold by its own crane on the bow and if you just have hand luggage you proceed down the right hand lane and queue under the shelter until called forward to the check-in booth where you quote your booking reference - it is not necessary to have your confirmation printed.
Let's go aboard Scillonian 3.
Depending on the state of the tide you could embark on one of several decks - the vessel is moored port side to quay in Penzance so the bow is facing the land.
We ascend a gentle shore side gangway up onto the vessel, in this case the 'Upper Deck'.
The decks aboard Scillonian 3 are as follows; Navigation Bridge Deck, Upper Deck, Main Deck and Lower Flats.
Let's go for an explore.
Starting on Upper Deck we enter the vessel through the shell door, ducking as we enter to ensure we do not hit our heads.
Ahead of us is a narrow port/starboard hall with access to the Navigation Bridge Deck to our left via a wide flight of steep stairs and Main Deck down stairs to our right via a pair of narrow stairs on the port and starboard sides.
Turning left and heading forward past the unisex toilet facility for those persons with walking difficulties we come to Western Rocks Café - a compact counter service affair offering hot and cold beverages, sandwiches, baguettes and sweets.
Necessary to queue at the counter from the starboard side we can help ourselves to items presented to us at the shoulder height counter whilst crew prepare the hot beverages from behind the scenes.
The seating decorated in a shade of burgundy is very comfortable owing to their padding and consist of individual chairs and sofas. The colour is refreshingly welcoming and brightens up the otherwise bland décor of pale walls, flooring and table tops.
Limited views of the passing vistas are available and can only be appreciated from a few seats owing to their positioning and the cafe's overall layout.
At the forward end of the seating area there is a flight of stairs giving access to the deck below. From here one can see across the ships' bow and watch loading operations as containers are placed on deck.
Going back to the embarkation hall using the starboard side corridor and passing the Pursers Office (a windowless facility with the door apparently always open), continuing aft we come to a large full width lounge with comfortable forward facing airline style fixed seating decorated in dark blue.
The overall décor is rather plane with nothing other than a mural and two wall mounted TV screens advertising places of interest on the islands.
Access to the stern exterior deck can be obtained from here, but we will come back to this later. In the mean time let's go back to the embarkation hall and head downstairs.
Two steep narrow stair wells (port and starboard) give access to the Main Deck where on the forward, port and starboard sides is a large single lounge with rows and rows of fixed airline style seating.
The area resembles that of an old 1970's British Rail cross channel ferry which is not surprising as the ship dates from that era. To be honest despite its blank décor I enjoyed this area as it reminded me of my childhood and an era of ferry travel that typically speaking no longer exists owing to newer tonnage.
The ships' only toilet facilities are located here with the ladies facilities to port and the gents to starboard either side of the funnel casing (those facilities for wheelchair users are upstairs) - I cannot speak for the ladies, but the gents was definitely a clean and well maintained facility.
At the stern of this deck is another counter service catering area also called Western Rocks Café as in that upstairs. Although closed (only open Fridays and weekends), one is more than welcome to use the seating which consists of fixed canteen style tables and chairs and able to accommodate groups of between two and eight per table - ideal if there are several of you in your party and you wish to sit together.
Along the starboard side corridor there is a stairwell to the Lower Flats Deck
- adjacent to the engine room - let's have an explore.......
Signage at the top of the stairs says there is a lounge down there, additional signage aboard also says passengers should sit here in rough sea conditions as it is the lowest point of the ship we can get access too.
Descending the stairs we come to a windowless carpeted lounge with very comfortable sofas and rows of free standing seating decorated in red. The engine noise is intense (which I personally didn't mind as for me it is part of the pleasure of travelling by a classic ship) but, believe me, I was able to get an hour or two's sleep.
Heading back up the numerous steep stairwells to the Navigation Bridge Deck we come to the exterior deck.........
........on this balmy summers day with brilliant sunshine, minimal wind and flat calm sea this exterior deck and that at the stern of Upper Deck are packed! Every potential space has a person in it, whether it is on top of a ventilation outlet, perched on a step or sitting directly on the painted metal deck.
The pictures below were taken immediately upon boarding before it got too busy.
Wooden benches are available but these are the first to be snapped up therefore TOP TIP, if on your crossing the weather is good, board early and grab a seat!
In closing Scillonian 3 is a great vessel!
She is gritty - a true workhorse with bare steel bulkheads, sturdy hull, thick glassed windows, actual portholes in the shell doors and wooden benches on the outside decks.
Having said that she has comfortable seating throughout and a café for the passengers - no shop selling souvenirs or TV lounges, etc.
Owing to her size (and popularity) she gets extremely busy both inside and out so board early and grab a seat - one of the bonuses of jumping trains at Plymouth to arrive in Penzance a little earlier.
Scillonian 3 is a great ship from a bygone era where exceptional vistas of the isles of Scilly are guaranteed.
She is due to be replaced by a new build in the coming years therefore, if you have the opportunity of travelling aboard this classic little ship please do - you will not be sorry.
Have I tempted you to travel to the Isle of Scilly?
Why not check out my photo album of the Isle of St Mary's - our arrival island, link at the end.
Bon voyage!
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