An extraordinarily popular vessel for holiday makers and ferry enthusiasts alike, when an opportunity arose to travel aboard this queen of the sea I simply had to book up.
Putting my European travelblogger hat to one side, on a personal level I was celebrating my 45th birthday; what better way to celebrate than undertaking a round trip mini cruise to the French port of St Malo aboard this gem.
Of course, I am a blogger through and through and I want to share my experiences so grab a cupper, curl up and virtually come aboard as after this you will want to book up too.
Bretagne has, and for the next couple years is, the mainstay of the Portsmouth (UK) to St Malo (France) route; a journey of around 8 / 12hrs in each direction depending on whether the ferry is sailing through the night or during the day – plenty of time to thoroughly enjoy a mini cruise experience aboard a vessel now in her 40th year of service - they don't make ferries like this anymore!
In a few years' time Bretagne will be replaced by a newbuild ferry so, my aim of this blog is to act as a tribute to this truly wonderful cruise ferry plus, encourage my readers to undertake a crossing aboard her whilst we still have time to enjoy her.
Built in the late 80’s Bretagne has a very loyal following of regular passengers and I am unashamedly one of them having travelled aboard many times. Plus, other than internal redecoration over the years she has changed very little giving her a unique 'old school' cruise ferry ambience.
Owing to her clean lines and attractive looks Bretagne was predominantly featured on the front cover of Brittany Ferries annual brochure during the 90's. Alas, this day and age the era of annual brochures has regrettably gone thanks to the internet.
Here are some images from #a2bviasea archives - click for a larger view.
Let's go to France.....
Without needing to speak to anyone my booking was made online with ease - the internet does have its place; confirmation of my crossings received instantly into my email ‘in box’.
The journey to Portsmouth from east London was quick and easy taking around two hours using the M25 and A3.
Portsmouth ferry port is very well connected to the UK motorway network - here is my short vlog:
Upon arrival at Portsmouth the most convenient parking area is the onsite long stay multi storey facility. At a cost of £13 for 24hrs I would be covered for the duration in which I would be away (just) although you may feel more comfortable paying for an additional 24hr period just in case.
With the sun setting I couldn't help myself by venturing to the top of the car park to get this photograph of Bretagne alongside her berth with fellow fleet mate Mont St Michel to her starboard side.
Prior to leaving the car park ensure you purchase a ticket from the machine - card payments are accepted.
Portsmouth International Ferry Terminal is only a few minutes away by foot - just follow the signage.
The interior of the ferry terminal is spacious, bright and airy - very similar to a small regional airport.
On the ground floor you will find the information desks for both Brittany Ferries and Condor Ferries, WC facilities and a small convenience shop, whilst on the upper floor there is a coffee shop with adjoining lounge and an exterior viewing gallery overlooking the port.
Here is a walk-about tour:
Should you arrive early such as I, around five minutes away on foot is The Ship & Castle Pub – a charming establishment where you are assured of a good pint and banter with the regulars, many of which appear to be port workers who’d finished their shift.
All too easy to stay and chat, it’s time to get back to the ferry terminal for my eagerly awaited trip to St Malo, France.
Having passed through security and had my boarding card scanned, a port shuttle bus awaits to take all foot passengers the short distance to Bretagne.
Arriving alongside her wide bow towers above; her graceful lines beautifully silhouetted against the setting evening sun. I feel like I'm off on holiday!
Ascending the ‘hamster maze’ foot passenger gangway giving access to the ship, the first thing I needed to do is find my cabin and stow my unwanted bags away. Here is a short vlog explaining how to find your cabin aboard Bretagne.
I opted for an interior (no window) cabin - I wasn't planning on spending much time in here. The cabin can accommodate two persons although I had sole use of it. It benefitted from having an ensuite bathroom with shower, sink and WC, a work space/vanity table with two pin power sockets and a hanging space for clothes.
Other cabin types are available aboard Bretagne such as:
Commodore cabins which come complete with a TV/DVD player, hot drinks, complimentary continental breakfast and access to the Commodore Lounge on Deck 9.
Club cabins with a TV and hot beverage making facilities.
Wheelchair accessible cabins.
All of the above have ensuite private facilities.
Here is a selection of photographs taken by A2B via Sea - all taken at the end of my trip after they had been occupied as I couldn't gain access prior.
So, with my overnight bag safely stowed away in my cabin it's time to venture out onto the exterior deck to watch our departure from Portsmouth and the sun setting beneath the horizon.
Bretagne benefits from having a considerable amount of exterior deck space primarily located on the port, starboard and aft sides of deck 9, around the funnel casing and adjacent to the lifeboats on Deck 10, in addition too the aft section of Decks 8 and 7. All of these areas offer excellent vantage points.
Uniquely it is possible to stand on the bow of the ship to obtain some truly magnificent forward views. This area can be obtained from Deck 6 - walk forward from the ships' reception through the cabin corridors and descend the stairs on the port (left) side.
Having departed Portsmouth, watched the sun setting with a cold beer in hand and freshened up in my cabin (just like one would do if on a cruise ship holiday, that's right, I feel like I'm on a cruise) it's time to explore Bretagne.
At the hub of the ship is a wonderful split level foyer occupying Decks 6 and 7 - a fully carpeted area with localised seating within an atrium.
On the port side is an information desk which is occupied by personnel 24/7 and on the starboard side a gift shop with a perfumery aft.
If embarking as a foot passenger the #Portsmouth #uk and #StMalo #france gangways are to port and starboard depending on which berths the ship uses.
Cabin accommodation is fore and aft. As mentioned earlier, access to the exterior deck on the bow can be accessed from here - just head forward from the information desk.
Ascending a dual staircase within the atrium we come to Deck 7.
Glazed display cabinets lead ones eye towards the arcade; a fully carpeted area with comfortable seating adorning the window lined corridor.
At the forward end of Deck 7 is La Baule self-service restaurant, an informal dining room benefiting from a range of freshly prepared meals.
The dining room is bright and very spacious.
Commercial drivers have their own dedicated area for dining near the forward windows and is divided by the rest of the dining room by a half height wall.
The main shopping centre aboard Bretagne offers a relaxed and casual shopping experience with products clearly arranged on shelving units and within display cases. Confectionary, travel accessories, gifts along with tobacco and alcoholic products are available.
Items can be paid for in both Euros and pound sterling.
Heading back to the main arcade one cannot help but to slow down and just meander as this area is far more than just a corridor - it's a destination in itself.
Comfortable tub chairs adorn the window edge where one can watch the passing vistas or 'people watch' and say hello to newfound friends which is bound to happen on a ship of this size.
At the stern of Deck 7 is the Yacht Club Piano Bar – a wonderful area to have an aperitif, listening to music and chatting to friends – all very civilized, before heading next door to the main restaurant – a spacious, luxurious dining room.
Below: the Yacht Club Piano Bar
Below: Les Abers Restaurant
TOP TIP - the restaurant closes at 2115hrs, one hour after departure from Portsmouth therefore, if you are intending to dine in here, please go immediately upon embarkation and forgo watching the departure from the exterior deck. Regrettably I missed my opportunity as I was outside. If you miss your opportunity La Baule self-service closes later.
(A2B via Sea would like to thank Barbara Hodgson for a copy of the (present) menu - October 2022)
Both the Piano Bar and the restaurant share their own exterior deck overlooking the stern. On a personal note I would love to see this area covered in decking with new furniture, ambient lighting and planters - its sheltered position making this area perfect to relax whatever the weather and would be an excellent addition to both facilities. Also, perhaps Brittany Ferries could consider al-fresco dining during the summer months?
Evening entertainment is focused on the Gwenn Ha Du Bar at the stern of Deck 8 above.
Accessed via a small flight of stairs on the port side, or via a ramp to facilitate those with walking difficulties to starboard, terraced seating encompasses the dancefloor and stage essentially making this area a show lounge where live entertainment, discos, magician and bingo are provided depending on the time of day.
Seating is comfortable and consists of lounge sofas and tub chairs with individual tables conveniently located nearby.
Like the dining room downstairs, Gwenn Ha Du Bar also benefits from having its own exterior deck with plastic seating, localised tables, smoking area and windbreaks which prevent cross-winds.
Forward of the bar is a large, full width open plan lounge/counter service café, playroom and reclining seat lounge - the only area aboard Bretagne which has been overhauled and is unrecognisable from her original guise (all other areas aboard this ship are virtually the same as when the ship was introduced in 1989 other than redecoration).
For those of you who have travelled aboard this ship for many decades you may recall this area was once La Gerbe de Locronan, a wonderful tea room serving excellent pastries, tarts and hot beverages. Today, this area is called La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe - more of an ‘Upper Crust’ catering outlet which you may recall seeing in major railway stations or transport hubs. Not a bad thing, this is the ideal outlet to obtain a light breakfast, afternoon snack or a beverage when needs must.
Below: seating area for La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe
Below - taken from a similar position in the 1990's
Below: La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe
Below: same area in the 1990's
Below: the former tea bar of La Gerbe de Locronan in the 1990's
The starboard side of this open plan area houses vast reclining seat lounges which are separated to La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe by floor to ceiling yellow divides and luggage storage units.
One can sleep in these airline style seats during overnight crossings at a nominal charge representing a good saving for those on a budget and not wishing to hire a cabin, though during daylight crossings access is free.
Deck 9
Other than large promenade exterior decks a small cluster of facilities can be found at the stern off the aft hall.
To starboard is the Commodore Lounge which is for the use of those passengers who have hired a Commodore Cabin.
To port is a gaming arcade entitled Games Planet with an array of simulators. Direct access to La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe can be obtained from here.
Finally, a further reserved seating lounge with airline style seats is available for overnight crossings - ideal for those on a budget and not wishing to hire a cabin.
Being a true cruise ferry Bretagne also benefits from having its own cinema complex located down on Deck 5.
Accessed from the reception on Deck 6, just proceed forward through the cabin corridors and descend the stairs on the starboard side.
Further cabins can be found on Decks 2 and 1 via a flight of extremely steep stairs. Don't worry, if you are accommodated down here - there is an elevator!
Having had a genuinely deep sleep in my comfortable cabin I awoke bright and early, obtained a coffee from La Gerbe De Locronan Cafe and headed out onto the exterior decks to watch the beautiful sunrise and our arrival into the French port of St Malo.
Disembarkation in St Malo was swift and hassle free - foot passengers congregate in the ships' reception on Deck 6 before being called forward to descend the covered gangway.
A courtesy bus shuttles passengers the short distance from the berth to the small ferry terminal.
Here is a short vlog showing you around the ferry terminal of St Malo.
All too soon embarkation commences and we can board Bretagne for the daytime voyage back to Portsmouth - a slightly quicker journey than the overnight voyage we sampled earlier.
Having had a wonderful eight-hour cruise back to Portsmouth passing the islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Sark and the Isle of Wight we arrive back in Portsmouth.
A2B via Sea was 'spotted' on the exterior deck by a very friendly bridge officer who approached me and offered me the opportunity to come onto the bridge to film our arrival from this unique vantage point.
Here is the footage - why not take a look? Since publishing on my YouTube Channel
'A2B via Sea on TV' over 37k people have watched it!
All too soon I arrive back into #Portsmouth - the shuttle bus awaiting to take foot passengers to the ferry terminal.
I trust you enjoyed reading my blog.
Bretagne is a wonderful cruise ferry with an excellent range of facilities. If you have a long weekend free why not contact #brittanyferries to enquire about a mini cruise aboard the classic Bretagne - I will certainly be booking up again!
Here is a real-time walk-about tour of #Bretagne showing you her facilities
A2B via Sea is founded by 'The Bearded Blogger'. Why not follow my adventures on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube. Many more blogs can be found on my website www.a2bviasea.co.uk
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